Fabric Manipulation

Firstly, I investigated and researched the following techniques; Quilting, Folding/ Origami, Pleating, Gathering, Twisting and Boning of Fabric, and furthermore, selected a wide variety of references to see how these techniques are used in garments.

Quiting is a sewing method used to join two or more layers of material together to make a thicker padded fabric.

Balenciaga, Fall 2011

Balenciaga, Spring 2011

Yohji Yamamoto, Spring 2011

Folding/Origami

Origami is a traditional Japaneese art of paper folding. However, it is commonly used in fashion design. Many fashion designers gain inspiration from origami art and therefore, create designs based on their interpertations of this technique. Such designers include Sandra Backlund, Gareth Pugh, Alexandra Verschueren and so on.

Alexandra Verschueren

Greth Pugh

Pleating is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place. Pleating is commonly used in garments.

Viktor and Rolf

Gathering is a sewing technique for shortening the length of a strip of fabric so that the longer piece can be attached to a shorter piece. It is commonly used in clothing to manage fullness, as when a full sleeve is attached to the armscye or cuff of a shirt, or when a skirt is attached to a bodice.

 Viktor and Rolf

Twisting

 Prada, Spring 2009

Lanvin

Boning of Fabric

Boning consists of rigid or semi rigid strips that provide strucutre and support to garments worn close to the body. Boning prevents the garment from sagging down and instead creates form and shape to the design.

 Alexander McQueen

Valentino